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SHANGHAILANDERS
Foreigners in Shanghai -
Where they Lived, Worked and Played.
It's the third in our "Shanghai Walks" series. Watch for it!

LECTURES AND TOURS

SCENE-SETTER LECTURES

A HUNDRED YEARS IN FIFTY MINUTES – SHANGHAI’S EXPAT HISTORY

Tess' talk, as the title implies, is a zip through the history of the Western presence in Shanghai, from 1842 to 1949. Early on Shanghai became a city of Western emigrants, and Ms. Johnston gives a short anecdotal history of each wave of foreigners who came to Shanghai, explains their contributions to the growth of the city, and what they left behind for posterity. Reviewers say: “She is lively, engaging, often irreverent, and leaves her audience gasping for breath after her lively romp through a century of Shanghai's colorful history.” (This can be followed by a walking and/or riding tour of several varied locations. Contact Tess by e-mail here or here).

 A HUNDRED YEARS IN FIFTY MINUTES - SHANGHAI’S JEWISH HISTORY


It also follows Shanghai’s Western emigrants in chronological order, but focuses on the Jewish presence. Her narrative starts with the Sephardic businessmen of the 19th century, moves through the 1933-1941 inflow into Shanghai of Jewish refugees from Nazi Europe, and ends in 1950 when most of the Jewish refugees had again traveled on to other countries. Her talk is lively, anecdotal, and includes extensive information on the 1943-45 Japanese-created “Designated Area for Stateless Refugees” – better known as the Jewish Ghetto.

THE GOOD OLD DAYS IN A "NEW" SHANGHAI

Tess tells what it was like to live in a city that had just emerged from a chaotic decade: an overcrowded and drab cityscape of no cars, no luxuries, of rationing and restraint, but one with its old Western architecture intact -- and absolutely wonderful. Expanded by readings from her recent memoir, PERMANENTLY TEMPORARY - From Berlin to Shanghai in Half a Century, Tess regales her listeners with tales of "baseball-bat" chickens and Snickers-eating rats, and other stories, both funny and sad, from her Shanghai sojourn from 1981 to the present.

FOR ART DECO FANS

Tess also has a Powerpoint presentation, preceded by a brief introductory lecture on Shanghai’s expat history, entitled SHANGHAI ART DECO. These are images from Tess's and Deke’s latest joint book by the same title, and the presentation received rave reviews at the World Congress of Art Deco in Melbourne two years ago (and subsequently at Art Deco Societies in Seattle, Chicago and New York City).

TESS’S TOURS

Tess currently offers four architectural tours, three in Frenchtown plus a Chinese one: The Bund, Frenchtown's Lanes + VIPs, South Frenchtown: Gentrifying, Frenchtown's Art Deco Apartments, and Slice of Life. All tours start with her “scene-setter” lecture, at her home, at a venue selected by the clients, or (for a small extra fee) at the Old China Hand Reading Room, a charming coffee/teahouse in the heart of Frenchtown. Walking tours are limited to ten persons, except for Slice of Life, which is limited to 2-4 persons. Riding tours are limited only by the capacity of the vehicle (to be provided by the client).

Two of these are new tours. The first, South Frenchtown: Gentrifying, covers the less-visited portions of the old French Concession. On the walk down Sinan Lu we pass elegant enclaves that are slowly emerging in a lovely time-warp of stately villas that have somehow survived. The walk ends at the southern border of the Concession in the exciting new/old Taikang Lu complex of shops, galleries and eateries.

The publication of Shanghai Art Deco led to the formulation of the second new tour. This one covers the Art Deco apartments that grace the tree-lined boulevards at the west end of Frenchtown. This can supplements the exploration of the lanes and the Song Family enclave of the standard Frenchtown tour.

Finally, Slice of Life is for those who want to see the “real” (Chinese) Shanghai. It starts with travel on a public bus to the lesser known and less touristy areas of Old Town. There is a pause for streetside dumplings before or after strolling down back streets to the Temple of the City God, Bridge of Nine Turnings and Willow Pattern Tea House. The old bazaar areas (both tourist and local) offer a possible pause for shopping, at the clients’ request. The tour ends on a major road where Tess puts the clients into a cab to return to their hotel.
© Tess Johnston, 2010. All Rights Reserved.  Contact Tess here.